Inside the Du-khang, draped with Thangkas and exquisite but smoky murals, stands the central image of Shakyamuni flanked by Amitaus, the Buddha of long life, and by Avalokiteshvara, otherwise known as Chenrazig - the Buddha of compassion. The struggle up to the Gompa is further rewarded by the hospitality of the monks who are likely to offer one tea, and if one is lucky, one may get an invitation to their informal prayer meetings. With shafts of light filtering through darkened rooms and the throb of chanted prayers, a visit to Rhidzong takes you to the heart of Buddhist Ladakh .